Blood of My Blood
the Scottish brooch goes Hollywood
I discovered Outlander, the Scottish time-traveling Starz series, way after everyone else. I thought it was sci-fi, and I don’t do sci-fi. (tldr: it’s not sci-fi, it’s reality-deficient, but in a good way)
The series of books by Diana Gabaldon, later, adapted into a hit limited drama series, tells the story of Claire Randall (Catriona Balfe) and Jamie Fraser (Sam Heughan). On a vacation to Scotland with her husband Frank (Tobias Menzies), Randall learns that she has time-traveling powers and is suddenly transported from post-WWII to the mid-18th century. She touched a stone, met Jamie Fraser, and her whole damn life fell apart.
It’s an epic story of love, loss, history, and many kilts. It also has its fair share of sex and horrific gore, and I’ve had to close my eyes in almost every episode. But the characters keep me coming back.
In early August, Starz released Blood of My Blood, a prequel that aims to tell the stories of the Outlander ancestors. In Outlander, we learn that Claire’s parents died in a car crash….but in Blood of My Blood, we see that they, too, have accidentally traveled back in time. We also meet Jamie’s parents, star-crossed lovers from rival clans, and it seems that they may have crossed paths with Claire’s parents.
I KNOW I KNOW….as I said earlier, reality deficient
It’s worth checking out, and you don’t need to watch one series to understand the other. If nothing else, the landscape is stunning and will make you want to get on a plane to somewhere green.
Which brings me back to the main character in both series: Scotland. Scottish clan life in the early 1700s wasn’t exactly leisurely, and there’s not a ton of excessive adornment—other than a different shade or pattern of tartan. Historians have been quick to say that Outlander’s muted tones of tartan do not reflect the true color palette of the time..But I digress.
I’m here to talk about jewelry.
Ellen Mackenzie (Harriet Slater), one of the leads in Blood of My Blood (also, the future mother of Jamie Fraser), is the eldest daughter Red Jacob Mackenzie (Peter Mullan), laird of the Mackenzie clan.
"If only you had a cock.”
-Red Jacob Mackenzie
She is her father’s favorite, and he prefers her company over that of her two young brothers, Dougal and Colum. Alas, “she has no cock” as her father reminds her, and therefore no (official) power in the family. But this woman doesn’t need a sword to get shit done.
You’ll have to watch the series to find out more, but one of the crowning moments in these first few episodes is the return of the brooch. The Mackenzie motto, “Luceo non uro," which translates to "I shine, not burn,” is etched into the circular body, and Ellen Mackenzie wears it with pride. In Outlander, Jamie Fraser wears a similar brooch emblazoned with his father’s clan motto, “Je suis pret,” which is old French for “I am ready.” The actual Fraser clan motto was “All my hope is in God,” so again….not totally accurate, but remember, we’re here for the drama.
I’m loving how this jewelry is itself a time traveler and a reflection of storylines to come. However, the history of Scottish brooches is more complex, with the earliest examples dating back to the Iron Age. Clearly, they were utilitarian items, used to fasten pieces of clothing together, but they evolved into status symbols and a physical example of Scottish metallurgical prowess.
After going down a rabbit hole, I learned that there are more than a few categories of Scottish brooches, and since this isn’t college, I’m only going to give you the highlights.
The Plaid
The brooch we see the most in the Outlander universe, the plaid brooch, dates back to the Iron Age. What’s interesting is the incorporation of the plaid into the Scottish uniforms in the British Army. Definitely not a drama-free relationship, the Scottish/British connection is debated even today but the distinctive element of tartan and the plaid brooch into actual uniforms is something I didn’t expect. But all of this changed after the 1745 Jacobite uprising, when Scottish clans fought the British to restore a Catholic (Stuart) king to the throne. After the Scots’ loss, regimental troops were banned from wearing tartan and other Highland dress under the Act of Proscription (Dress Act of 1746). HOWEVER, officers and soldiers serving in the British army were allowed to wear their regimental tartan (and plaid brooches) as part of the uniform as part of a strategy to suppress future rebellions.
The Luckenbooth
The Luckenbooth was named for the locked booths or shops located on Edinburgh’s Royal Mile. The Royal Mile is a long cobblestone street that runs down from Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyrood. The Luckenbooth brooch featured the heart and crown – the ‘Heart & Crown of Scotland’ and is sometimes linked to the tragic love story of Mary, Queen of Scots.
The Luckenbooth itself has a story that is similar to that of the Irish “claddagh” ring. It’s been said that traditionally, a young man would give his betrothed the brooch on their wedding day. When their first child arrived, the brooch would then be pinned to the baby’s shawl to protect it from evil spirits.
The Pebble
In 1852, Queen Victoria purchased Balmoral Castle as a summer retreat, igniting a wave of fascination with all things Scottish. The Pebble brooch was around before then, but it was the Queen who made it cool.
A Pebble brooch was considered Scottish because it featured Scottish “pebble” stones, such as gray and pink agate, onyx, and carnelian. Certain stones would represent different regions, such as pink and gray granites (typical of Aberdeen) and the cairngorm stone—a yellow-brown quartz—found in the Highlands. These pebble brooches may have incorporated traditional Scottish stones, but the incorporation of traditional Victorian motifs made them fashionable.
And now you know just a bit more than you did five minutes ago.
I’m loving the deep dive into TV jewelry, so hit me up if you want me to investigate a particular film or series. Speaking of, don’t miss this gem of a story about the 12-year-old whose necklace created a viral moment during the latest season of The White Lotus. Click below.
Take care of your hearts.
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